How to Price a Consumer Unit (Fuse Board) Replacement
A customer rings up wanting a "quick fuse board swap" and expects a price over the phone. You know it's rarely that simple — until you've looked at the existing installation, you can't be sure what the job really involves. Price too low and you eat the cost of every surprise; price too high without explaining why and you lose the job to someone who hasn't thought it through.
This guide breaks down how to price a consumer unit replacement so your quote is accurate, profitable and easy for the customer to say yes to.
What a Consumer Unit Replacement Actually Involves
A fuse board change is more than unscrewing the old one and bolting on a new one. A proper job usually includes:
- Inspecting and testing the existing installation before you commit
- Isolating the supply and liaising with the DNO if the main cut-out needs pulling
- Fitting a new board, typically with RCBOs or a split-load arrangement plus surge protection
- Re-terminating and labelling every circuit
- Testing the whole installation and issuing certification
- Notifying the work under Part P (via your competent person scheme or building control)
Because current wiring regulations have moved on, a like-for-like swap onto modern standards often surfaces issues the customer never knew about. That's where pricing gets interesting.
Breaking Down the Cost
There's no single national "consumer unit replacement cost" — it depends on the property, the board, the number of circuits and your area. As a rough guide, build your price from these parts rather than plucking a round number.
Materials
- The consumer unit itself — a metal-clad board with RCBOs and SPD costs considerably more than a basic split-load unit. Spec it to the job.
- Consumables — glands, sleeving, labels, fixings, a new main switch or isolator if needed.
- Tails and bonding upgrades — older installations frequently need new meter tails and main protective bonding to gas and water to meet current standards.
Labour
Most domestic boards are a one-day job for a single electrician, but a property with many circuits, awkward access or remedial work can stretch to a day and a half or two. Price your time honestly — if you're not sure how, our guide on how to calculate your hourly rate walks through it.
Certification and notification
Your time to test, certify and notify the work is real labour and should be in the price, not given away. The job isn't finished until the paperwork is.
Tip: Quote the board replacement and any likely remedials as separate lines. The customer sees exactly what they're paying for, and you're not absorbing unknowns into one vague figure.
Don't Forget the Remedial Work
This is where electricians lose money. When you replace a consumer unit, the new RCD protection will often reveal faults the old board masked — borrowed neutrals, damaged cables, dodgy connections. Under current regulations you generally can't sign off a board you can't safely energise.
Common extras that should be priced or flagged before you start:
- Earthing and bonding upgrades to meet current standards
- New meter tails or main earth conductor
- Remedial work on circuits that won't pass testing
- Smoke alarm or additional protection upgrades the customer asks for
Make it clear in the quote that remedials are assessed on inspection. Spell out your hourly rate or a contingency so there are no awkward conversations on the day. For more on this, see quote vs estimate: the legal difference — it matters how you word it.
How to Build a Quote That Wins
A clear, fast, professional quote does more to win the job than being the cheapest. Aim for:
- A short summary of what you'll do and to what standard
- Itemised materials and labour
- Clear handling of remedials and how they'd be charged
- What's included — testing, certification, notification, making good
- Payment terms and how long the price holds
Speed matters too. The electrician who quotes within hours often wins over the one who turns up first but takes three days to send a price. If quoting is eating your evenings, a job-management system like Gaffer lets you build an itemised electrical quote on site, send it before you've left the drive, and have it accepted and turned into a job in a few taps. If you want the detail, read how to write an electrical quote that wins the job.
Getting Paid and Staying Compliant
Once the work's done, two things protect your margin: getting paid promptly and keeping your certification straight.
- Take a deposit on larger jobs to cover the board and materials up front.
- Send the invoice the moment the job's signed off, not at the end of the month.
- Store the EIC or relevant certificate against the job so it's there when a landlord, buyer or insurer asks.
Automated invoice reminders and digital certificates mean you chase less and lose less paperwork. Gaffer keeps the quote, job, certificate and invoice on one record, so a finished board replacement is fully documented and paid without the admin pile-up.
Because regulations and scheme requirements change, always check the current official rules and your competent person scheme's guidance before you certify and notify — don't rely on how it was done last year.
FAQs
How much does it cost to replace a consumer unit in the UK?
There's no fixed figure — most domestic replacements fall within a broad range depending on the board specified, the number of circuits and any remedial work. As a rough guide, price the materials, a day or so of labour, plus testing and certification, then add for any earthing, bonding or tails upgrades the property needs.
How long does a fuse board replacement take?
A straightforward domestic board is usually a one-day job for one electrician. Properties with many circuits, poor access or remedial work can take a day and a half to two days.
Do I need to notify a consumer unit replacement under Part P?
Replacing a consumer unit is notifiable electrical work in England and Wales. You can self-certify through a competent person scheme or notify building control. Check the current Part P rules and your scheme's requirements before you start.
Why is the quote higher than a simple swap?
A modern board often reveals faults the old one hid, and current standards may require earthing, bonding or tail upgrades. A proper quote covers safe installation, testing and certification — not just bolting on a new box.
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